Estimated reading time: 8 minutes
Makeup in Natyashastra is an integral part of abhinaya, the art of expression in classical Indian dance.
The Natyashastra lays out detailed guidelines for make-up, emphasizing its role in rasa creation and character portrayal.
Different colors, lines, and patterns hold symbolic meanings. They help to instantly set up a character’s temperament, social standing, and emotional state.
From the elaborate eye make-up that amplifies emotions to the specific colors of certain deities, every detail tells a story.
Imagine a dancer on stage. Her face is glowing under the lights, every emotion she conveys amplified by the subtle hues of her makeup. The audience is captivated, not just by her movements, but by the vivid storytelling etched on her face.
In this guide, we’ll focus on the four primary facial colors (mukharāga) and how they elevate performance. It’s not just about beauty and hand gestures—it’s about amplifying sentiment, mood, and rasa (emotional essence) through means of gestures.
तज्ज्ञैस्तेनानुसारेण कार्यं तदनुगं मुखम् ।
अथातो मुखरागस्तु चतुर्धा परिकीर्तितः ॥ १६२॥
tajjñaistenānusāreṇa kāryaṃ tadanugaṃ mukham |
athāto mukharāgastu caturdhā parikīrtitaḥ || 162||
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Why Facial Color (Makeup) Matters: The Foundation of Emotion
The makeup in Natyashastra isn’t just a manual; it’s a philosophy. It teaches us that every gesture, glance, and expression must align with the emotional state (bhava) and sentiment (rasa) being portrayed. But here’s the kicker: without the right facial color, even the most precise gestures fall flat.
Think of it like this. Your face is the canvas, and make-up is the brushstroke that brings the painting to life. The Natyashastra identifies four key facial colors:
- Natural (svābhāvika)
- Bright (prasanna)
- Reddened (rakta)
- Dark (śyāma)
Each color corresponds to specific emotions and states, creating a visual language that speaks directly to the audience. Let’s break it down.
The Four Facial Colours
स्वाभाविकः प्रसन्नश्च रक्तः श्यामोऽर्थसंश्रयः ।
स्वाभाविकस्तु कर्तव्यः स्वभावाभिनयाश्रयः ॥ १६३॥
svābhāvikaḥ prasannaśca raktaḥ śyāmo’rthasaṃśrayaḥ |
svābhāvikastu kartavyaḥ svabhāvābhinayāśrayaḥ || 163||
1. Natural (svābhāvika): The Blank Canvas
The natural face is the baseline. It’s used when portraying indifference, neutrality, or a calm state of being. Think of it as the “resting face” of your performance.
When to use it:
- Neutral or introspective moments.
- Scenes requiring subtlety, like a character lost in thought.
Pro tip: Keep the make-up minimal here. A light foundation and soft tones work best to keep a natural look.
2. Bright (prasanna): The Glow of Joy
A bright face radiates positivism. It’s the color of wonder, laughter, and love. This is where your make-up takes on a luminous quality, reflecting the inner light of the character.
When to use it:
- Moments of joy or surprise.
- Romantic scenes where the character is smitten.
Pro tip: Use highlighters or light-reflective powders to create a glowing effect. Pair it with a soft blush to enhance the brightness.
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3. Reddened (rakta): The Fire Within
Red is the color of intensity. It’s used to depict intoxication, passion, anger, or deep sorrow. This is where your make-up becomes bold, mirroring the heightened emotions of the character.
When to use it:
- Heroic or fierce moments.
- Scenes of anger, passion, or deep emotional turmoil.
Pro tip: Use red tones strategically—on the cheeks, lips, or even around the eyes. Blend well to avoid a harsh look, but don’t shy away from intensity.
4. Dark (śyāma): The Shadow of Emotion
Darkness isn’t just absence; it’s presence. A dark face conveys fear, disgust, or the ominous. It’s the color of the Terrible and Odious Sentiments, adding depth and gravity to your performance.
When to use it:
- Scenes of fear, horror, or repulsion.
- Moments of despair or foreboding.
Pro tip: Use darker shades like deep browns, grays, or even black to create shadows. Focus on the eyes and jawline to emphasize the mood.
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Practical Tips for Applying Mukharāga (Makeup) for Better Abhinaya
1. Understand the Rasa First – Every sentiment (rasa) demands a specific look. Start by analyzing the scene and the emotion you aim to convey. Are you depicting veera (heroic) or bibhatsa (odious)?
2. Use Layers to Build Subtlety – Start with a base that matches the “natural” tone and build upon it. For instance, add blush for rakta (reddened) or contour with darker hues for śyāma (dark).
3. Match Gestures and Glances – The Nāṭyashāstra advises synchronization. The colour of the face should align with every eyebrow raise, eye movement, or lip curl.
4. Leverage Modern Tools – Use contemporary make-up products—like cream blushes or water-based face paints—to achieve the desired effect while ensuring durability under stage lights.
5. Keep It Visible – Remember, stage performances need exaggerated make-up to secure the audience, even at the back, perceives the emotions clearly. Sort bold applications over subtlety.
Common Mistakes to Avoid While Applying Makeup
- Overloading with Colours: Stick to the emotion you aim to convey. Overusing multiple colours dilutes the impact.
- Ignoring Lighting: Test make-up under stage lighting to make sure it’s neither too dull nor overly vibrant.
- Skipping Synchronization: Colours must align seamlessly with gestures and expressions. Disconnected make-up can break the audience’s immersion.
Frequently Asked Questions
The main parts of makeup in Natyashastra, are natural things like turmeric, sandalwood, and colored clays. These materials help create different colors and textures. Each one has a special meaning that connects to the character and rasa being shown.
Makeup in Natyashastra is very important. It helps to show feelings and emotions clearly during performances. It helps to bring out facial features, shows what characters are like, and allows performers to really dive into their roles. The make-up helps to convey the rasa (sentiment) effectively.
Contemporary artists can inspire themselves a lot from the Natyashastra. They can explore its ideas about color symbolism. They can also look at how to use natural ingredients. Understanding how make-up can tell stories in a different way is important too.
Yes, the Natyashastra connects colors with feelings and different characters. For example, red usually stands for anger and bravery. Yellow means knowledge and goodness, while black represents darkness or bad traits.
In classical Indian theatre, people use detailed make-up, but they apply it in different ways. Women typically use more complex designs that emphasize their eyes and lips. In contrast, men often use stronger lines and colors to show power and masculinity.
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Conclusion
In the realm of Nāṭyashāstra, the face is more than a canvas—it’s a storyteller. The right colours breathe life into sentiments, transforming mere actions into profound art.
Along with body language, and the theory of rasa, makeup is a work of art in Natya Veda. It adds a deep layer into classical dance described in Natya Shastra, a Sanskrit treatise.
So, next time you step into the spotlight, remember: your make-up isn’t just paint. It’s poetry in motion, echoing the timeless wisdom of the Nāṭyashāstra.
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At Natya-Shastra.in, our mission is to serve as a gateway to the illustrious world of the NāṭyaŚāstra. We offer insights, resources, and a platform to delve deeper into the nuances of Indian performing arts.
Also, we aim to bring forth the richness of this ancient text, shedding light on the profound wisdom it holds and its everlasting influence on various artistic traditions.
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NatyaShastra Glossary: Head over to the Natyashastra Glossary page to know the meaning behind Sanskrit terms used in the articles.
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